Fashion week

PRADA 2014-15 AW Menswear

January 14, 2014

每次看Prada的秀,我腦中總浮出這樣的畫面:

小孩:“媽媽,我看不懂!”

媽媽:“閉嘴,看就對了。”

我想全場觀眾,有三分之二的內心是這樣想的。

久而久之我就不把PRADA或MIU MIU,所有Miuccia Prada女士領兵的大秀當成”Fashion Show”來看,而是比作盛大的表演來觀賞,感受著現場的故事,試著跟Prada女士心有靈犀,至於服裝線條或搭配手法,下秀後再細細研究即可。從去年秋冬女裝線開始,Miuccia Prada便不再著墨於視覺上的藝術衝擊,而是更深一層的追求服裝的故事,她說:“我相信,服裝本身,就能完成一部電影。”,是讓人摸不著頭緒的藝術電影也好,步調緩慢後勁卻極強的歐洲電影也好,這個女人將她成熟複雜的內心世界投射在時裝上,讓全世界的人迫不及待地去解讀,後而拜服,簡直就是變態中的變態。

第一位男模出場,不知為何地,我有種看悲劇電影的感覺,或許是他隨性披掛的圍巾讓我想起了小王子的造型,而小王子本來就不是什麼開心的童話故事,而秀場中央的爵士樂隊現場吹奏著三零年代氛圍,以喇叭為主的爵士樂, 不合身的服裝線條搭配模特兒們哀怨的表情,實在很像孤伶伶的走在動盪不安的時代的樣子。我個人非常喜歡這一季男裝皮草使用的方法,是用來點綴而不是大鳴大放的,反而更加地細緻。雖然裡頭還是充滿讓人摸不著頭緒的服飾,像是皮草盔甲或外形類似超大相機包的配件(不好意思沒怎麼拍,請參照各大時裝網站),但總體來說…其實也無關喜歡不喜歡,因為Prada就是Prada,沒有不喜歡這個選項。

Prada的男裝秀總是穿插著女裝,春夏就穿插Cruise,秋冬就穿插Pre Fall,而這次的Pre Fall我 太 喜 歡 了!甚至比秋冬男裝還要喜歡,因為她想表現的女性魅力正是我最喜歡的,有點距離的成熟冷性美。

我不喜歡拍太有意義的Runway照,因為交給現場的專業行家們負責即可,一直以來,我總是習慣把Runway當成風景,這麼美好的風景,當然得拍下屬於只自己的美麗畫面。這次Prada替我安排的位置實在是太令人興奮了,現在看著這些照片我還能回想起當時的感受及感動,希望也能傳達給你們。

Are you the one who always lost at first but later just can’t believe that how genius Miuccia Prada is? Well, you are a “Prada Victim” as well, like me. I used to be so confused in her show, but now, I don’t treat it as a fashion show. It’s a real performance, and you can study all the details later. The best way to go to a Prada show is just to be there and feel it.

Miuccia Prada once said, a movie could be done just with clothes. After her 2013 SS fashion show about Geisha style, her design has moved from the surface to something deeper, something makes me always wanna know more. As for this 14-15 AW menswear collection there was a sad figure that hit me soon as the show started. I think maybe is the first look reminds me so much of the style of The Little Prince, and to me it’s such a sad story. With the live jazz band playing a retro song, I felt like watching a movie in a turbulent period. Though there were still some pieces that I don’t understand, but this is Prada. It’s not for you to understand, it’s for you to follow. I really like the way they use the fur this season, it’s like the icing on the cake, not too much but have made the style so delicate.

I love the pre fall women collection I have to say, haha. I also love the position this time that Prada gave me, so I can have a wonderful angle for my personal collection of runway panorama. Hope you enjoy it too:)

Photo by Yu Lee

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